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Thursday, March 31, 2005 |
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Caroline's Smoke and Spice WOW!! We were starting to think that Spring would never get here. April showers bring May flowers, so this is the time to begin thinking about this years crop of vegetables and herbs. To make things a bit easier for you, we have provided a great article on herbs this month - we explore the most common herbs for culinary use, as well as look at growing your own herbs (both outside and inside), and harvesting them. After all, fresh and dried herbs are a vital component of any avid grillers toolkit. Meanwhile, as the BBQ's and smokers make their way from the garage to the yard, we wanted to make sure that your first fire of the season was a safe one, so we are also including some tips for getting your grill ready for the outdoor cooking season. FOR OUR NEWSLETTER SUBSCRIBERS ONLY!!! To say thank you for being a loyal newsletter subscriber, for the month of April we are offering you a 20% discount on your next purchase of $20.00 or more. What better way to stock up on your favorite rubs, salts, and Texas Chili Seasoning from Caroline's Rub for the upcoming season!! Just be sure to enter coupon code XXXXX when you check out! It is that simple!From all of us at Caroline's, have a great month and a safe season! __________________________________ GROWING HERBS SUCCESSFULLY Before modern times herbs were an important aspect of everyday living. They were used for many functions including dyes, medicines, room deodorizers, and of course cooking. It is these culinary uses that most people think of when they think of herbs, and the most popular reason they are grown in home gardens. Most herbs are herbaceous, having non-woody stems, and dying back to the ground each fall. Many herbs are perennial although some are annual. These may reseed, however, coming back the following year and so may give the false impression of being perennial. Most herbs need sun, heat, and a well-drained soil to grow best. Basil (Ocimum basilicum), an annual, is one of the most popular herbs. It grows one to two feet high. You can pinch the white or purple flowers off to help make the plant branch. The different types of basils have various leaf sizes and colors, but generally the upright plants have purple or bright green leaves. The pungent fragrance enhances tomato sauces and dishes. Basil also can be made into a delicious pesto. One type of basil has a cute, small globe-shaped form with tiny leaves, which is an excellent choice to use along a path or to edge a bed. Parsley (Petroselinum crispum) is another of the all-time favorite cooking herbs. If you grow only one herb, make it this one. Parsleys are popular in pots indoors on kitchen windowsills. Technically a tender biennial, it is grown as annuals from slow to germinate seeds. Parsley is the popular garnish that garnishes plates in many restaurants and can be used in salads, soups, and other dishes. It also makes a nice edging to beds with some selections having ruffled or curled leaves. Dill (Anethum graveolens) also makes the top three of favorite annual herbs. It is used as a flavoring and, of course, in pickles. Both the seeds and the feathery leaves are used for flavoring. This is a tall herb, growing two to four feet high, depending on selection. It could be used in the middle of borders for a fine texture. Of the perennial herbs, a couple of tender ones with woody stems also are popular. Bay laurel (Laurus nobilis) has thick, aromatic, evergreen leaves. It makes an attractive container plant to overwinter indoors if room. The leaves can be dried and used to flavor soups, stews, and sauces. Rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis) can be kept outdoors in summer in large pots, then brought indoors in winter into a bright yet cool location. It can be used not only as an aromatic, but also in cooking for sauces, soups, teas, and for flavoring lamb. Mints (Mentha) are among the most common perennial herbs and should be sited with care as the roots are quite aggressive. To avoid this problem, plant in containers, keep well watered, and repot often to keep plants vigorous. Peppermint and spearmint are the most popular, but you also can plant other flavors such as apple and lemon mints. Mints are used medicinally, as well as in cooking to flavor tea, jelly, salads, candy, ice cream, and beverages. Chives (Allium schoenoprasum) are familiar to most gardeners. They resemble and smell like small onion plants and can be chopped and used to flavor salads, soups, and egg dishes. The pinkish purple flowers are attractive, especially if grown in a row along a walk, but make sure you cut off these flowers right after bloom. If you allow them to go to seed, you will have chives everywhere and forever! Thyme (Thymus) is the other main perennial herb that should be included in a culinary garden. Being a very low groundcover plant, thyme is suitable for rock gardens, planting between stones in walks and patios, and even for growing in low-mown lawns. There are many species and selections, some more ornamental than others either in flowers or foliage. Strongly scented thymes are used to flavor meats or in soups. GROWING HERBS OUTDOORS If you have room, you can make herbs part of your vegetable garden. However, you may prefer to grow herbs in a separate area, particularly the perennials. Herb Garden Size First, decide on the size of your herb garden; this will depend on the amount of variety you want. Generally, a kitchen garden can be an area 20 by 4 feet. Individual 12- by 18-inch plots within the area should be adequate for separate herbs. You might like to grow some of the more colorful and frequently used herbs, such as parsley and purple basil, as border plants. Keep annual and perennial herbs separate. A diagram of the area and labels for the plants also will help. Site and Soil Conditions When selecting the site for your herb garden, consider drainage and soil fertility. Drainage is probably the most important single factor in successful herb growing. None of the herbs will grow in wet soils. If the garden area is poorly drained, you will have to modify the soil for any chance of success. To improve drainage at the garden site, remove the soil to a depth of 15 to 18 inches. Place a 3-inch layer of crushed stone or similar material on the bottom of the excavated site. Before returning the soil to the bed area, mix some compost or sphagnum peat and sand with it to lighten the texture. Then, refill the beds higher than the original level to allow for settling of the soil. The soil at the site does not have to be especially fertile, so little fertilizer should be used. Generally, highly fertile soil tends to produce excessive amounts of foliage with poor flavor. Plants, such as chervil, fennel, lovage, and summer savory, require moderate amounts of fertilizer. Adding several bushels of peat or compost per 100 square feet of garden area will help improve soil condition and retain needed moisture. Sowing Herb Seed Nearly all herbs can be grown from seed. Although rust infects mints, very few diseases or insects attack herbs. In hot, dry weather, red spider mites may be found on low-growing plants. Aphids may attack anise, caraway, dill, and fennel. A few herbs, such as mints, need to be contained or they will overtake a garden. Plant them in a no. 10 can or bucket; punch several holes just above the bottom rim to allow for drainage. A drain tile, clay pot, or cement block also can be used. Sink these into the ground; this should confine the plants for several years. Herbs can also be grown in containers, window boxes, or hanging baskets. These methods will require more care, especially watering. If possible, sow seeds in shallow boxes in late winter. Transplant seedlings outdoors in the spring. A light, well-drained soil is best for starting the seedlings indoors. Be careful not to cover the seeds too deeply with soil. Generally, the finer the seed, the shallower it should be sown. Sow anise, coriander, dill, and fennel directly in the garden since they do not transplant well. Most biennials should be sown in late spring directly into the ground. Work the soil surface to a fine texture and wet it slightly. Sow the seeds in very shallow rows and firm the soil over them. Do not sow the seeds too deeply. Fine seeds, such as marjoram, savory, or thyme, will spread more evenly if you mix them with sand. Some of the larger seeds can be covered by as much as one-eighth of an inch of soil. With fine seeds, cover the bed with wet burlap or paper to keep the soil moist during germination. Water with a fine spray to prevent washing away of the soil. Cutting and Division Cutting and division also are useful in propagating certain herbs. When seeds are slow to germinate, cuttings may be the answer. Some herbs, however, spread rapidly enough to make division a main source of propagation. Tarragon, chives, and mint should be divided while lavender should be cut. Winter Protection Perennial and biennial herbs should be winter protected. Many herbs are shallow-rooted, which makes them susceptible to heaving during spring thaws. Mulch with straw, oak leaves, or evergreen boughs 4 inches deep to protect the plants. Apply the mulch after the ground has frozen in early winter. Do not remove the mulch until plants show signs of growth in early spring. Early removal could result in some early frost damage. GROWING HERBS INDOORS Herbs can also be grown indoors for year-round enjoyment. Growing herbs indoors is no more difficult than growing them in the garden. Indoor plants will need essentially the same conditions as herbs grown outdoors -- sunlight and a well-drained soil mix that is not too rich. Select a south or west window. Different herbs have different light requirements, but most need a sunny location; in winter, "grow lamps" or fluorescent lamps are helpful in supplementing light. When planting, mix two parts sterilized potting soil and one part coarse sand or perlite. To ensure sweetness of the soil, add a cut of ground limestone per bushel of soil -- or 1 teaspoon of lime per 5-inch pot. There should be an inch of gravel at the bottom of each pot to ensure good drainage. Consider the water needs of each herb. Growing plants need more water as do plants in clay pots or hanging baskets. Misting and grouping the plants on a tray of moistened pebbles will help keep them in a humid condition. Don't drench herbs -- avoid getting herb roots soggy. Annual herbs can spend their full life cycle in a pot indoors. Perennial herbs, however, will do better if you place them outdoors during the summer. Plunge the pot in soil up to its rim, or keep it in a protected location on the porch or patio. Herb plants need sun during the summer months, so place them accordingly. To prevent the loss of foliage and avoid plant damage, bring herbs indoors before frost. A light frost is helpful on mint, chives, and tarragon; it tends to induce a rest period and make the resulting new growth firm and fresh. You can maintain an indoor herb garden indefinitely by periodic light feeding, yearly repotting, renewing annuals, seasonal moves outdoors for perennials, and occasional pruning. Water plants as needed. Use several planters or a divided one to allow for different moisture needs of plants. HARVESTING HERBS Fresh leaves may be picked as soon as the plant has enough foliage to maintain growth. To ensure good oil content, pick leaves or seeds after dew has disappeared but before the sun becomes too hot. For dry, winter use, harvest leaves before the flower buds open. Pick the seed heads as the color changes from green to brown or gray. Wash dirty leaves and seed heads in cold water; drain thoroughly before drying. __________________________________ START YOUR IGNITORS & PREPARE YOUR PROPANE WITH SAFETY AS WE GET READY FOR THE NEW GRILLING SEASON! When the fall ended, and winter was close, you probably did like most of us and threw a cover over the old grill, rolled it into the back of the garage or a shed (and some of us even left them standing outside on the patio) and didn't think of it again until now. Well, the grilling season is on top of us, but before you fire up that grill, you will want to do a little spring cleaning for culinary and safety's sake. Clean the Grids, Grate and Briquettes First, inspect the lava grate (upon which the briquettes rest) to see if it is broken or about to break. This often happens due to being subjected to the extreme changes of heat. If broken, replace the grate. Next, check the cooking grid (or grill) and warming rack. If dirty, clean with a wire brush or scraper to remove any built-up food residue and clean using a mild detergent solution or a commercial degreaser after first carefully reading the instructions on the label. If the grid is broken or severely chipped and gouged, replace with a universal replacement or order from the company that made your unit. Now about briquettes. First, if you noticed toward the end of the last season that you were getting a lot of flare-up, or uneven heat distribution, you should discard the old briquettes and get new ones. If the problem didn't exist or was minimal, you can clean the briquettes. If you have the ceramic briquettes (which I prefer) the easiest way to clean them is to dump them in your sink, and cover them with vinegar. Let stand for 10 minutes. Drain off the vinegar and rinse thoroughly with boiling water. Let dry thoroughly before using. If you have the porous lava rock you might want to check with your local dealer about a commercial cleaning solution. If they are more than two seasons old, you should replace them. Check the Grill Ignitor If the igniter does not seem to be functioning, check to make sure the electrode is 1/8th (one-eighth) inch away from the burner. This is the correct distance for spark generation. Check closely to ensure that no food residue has gotten on the electrode or that the electrode is not cracked. Check the surrounding area of the igniter to be sure that it is not shorting out or sparking at the grill frame or the casting bottom. If none of these problems exist but it does not spark, it is time to get a new igniter. Clean and Inspect the Grill Burner CAUTION: be sure to consult the owner's manual for the instructions on how to remove the burner. Also, before removing the burner, take particular note of the position of the Venturi tube(s) at the gas control valve. click for illustrations Following manufacturer's instructions, remove the burner. Use a stiff brush to remove any residue from the burner. Inspect closely for holes or cracks and note that these occur most commonly at the burner seams. Unplug the burner ports (the little holes along the edge of the burner) using a toothpick or a piece of copper wire. You may also use a small nail, but be careful because steel it is hard enough to damage the ports. If you encounter any kind of damage, discontinue use immediately and replace the burner with a new one. After sitting over the winter, the Venturi tubes may contain dirt, spider webs, water or other debris. These tubes may be cleaned by using bent pipe cleaners, a very small bottle brush, or a special Venturi brush which can be purchased from your local dealer. A note here: it is not recommended that you remove the Venturi tubes from the burner's base because it is easy to damage the sealing gasket and break the seal. Clean the Grill Housing Now, while you have everything out of the housing, or 'casting' as they call it in the trade, is a good time to clean it, too. Using a commercial grease remover (always be sure to follow the directions for use on the label), wear rubber gloves and eye protection and use a stiff or steel brush and a scraper to remove any soot and grease residue build-up from the inside housing of your cooker. Before actually cleaning be sure to cover valve orifices and connection parts with aluminum foil to protect them from damage and blockage. Reinstall the burner(s), igniter, rock grate, lava rocks or ceramic briquettes, and the cooking grids. Note: be sure to replace the burners the exact way they were before removing them. Remember, at the beginning, I told you to take particular note of the Venturi tube positions? So, when replacing the burner, place the ends of the Venturi tubes over the gas valves so they engage in a straight line. Make sure that the valve orifices are 1/4 (one-quarter) inch inside the Venturi tubes. Inspect the Hose Assembly NOTE: before starting, follow these rules to ensure safety: DO NOT SMOKE or permit any flame or other source of ignition in the area while conducting the leak test. DO NOT use matches, lighters, or flames of any kind to check for leaks. DO conduct the test outdoors in a well ventilated area. DO NOT use the grill until all leaks are repaired and double checked! Finally, if for some reason you are unable to stop a leak, shut off the gas supply and call a qualified Gas Appliance professional. Inspect the hose closely for cracks, nicks or cuts. If you find any of these, do NOT think you can repair them with electrical tape or any other kind of sealer. The gas is under pressure and any defect weakens the hose which may result in a fire or explosion. If any of these problems are found, replace the hose before using the unit. If no damage is found, perform the soap test. To do the soap test, mix a half and half solution of water and dishwashing soap in a bowl. Make sure, before you start, all control knobs are in the 'Off' position. Rub the soap solution over all hose connections then turn gas on at the tank (or the gas valve for natural gas units). Check each connection to see if there are any bubbles gurgling up. If so, the connection is leaking gas. If you detect a leak, wipe off the solution, remove the hose and reconnect, being sure fittings are straight and connections tightened. If the leak persists, replace the hose assembly. It is also important to check your propane tank (if applicable) to ensure there are no holes, dents, or cracks and/or other damage. If any damage is detected, the tank should be replaced immediately. Also, most areas have a expiration date which governs the life of the tank. If the tank is past its expiration date, replace it immediately. Now is a good time to check and ensure all nuts and bolts and other connections on the unit are solid and tight. Although, reading this sounds like a lot of work, it is quite easy, simple and fast do to. If you have done grill maintenance before, it will take about an hour. If you are doing it for the first time, do not rush. It may take about two hours, but it is worth it to have a safe grill that will give good service and last for years of good cooking. We hope you enjoyed this edition of Carolines Smoke and Spice. Thanks for your continued business and support and we will see you next month. Joe and Amy Johnson |
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